Last year when i had no money to hire an expert to remodel my bathroom, even though they were lots of affordable St. Louis bath remodeling expert, I opted for DIY and its was an interesting journey. Here are some things i did and I know it will be of great use to someone reading it;

1. Turn off the water supply either at the valve situated under the sink or at the main valve. Then turn faucet on to relieve any water pressure left in the lines.

2. Loosen the slip nut at the P-trap or remove the entire P-trap if necessary and catch any water left in the trap with a bucket.

3. Loosen the water supply lines with a wrench and disconnect them.

4. Use a utility knife to cut the sealant along the backsplash, then tug on the sink top so as to free it from the wall.

5. Assemble the drain and faucet on the sink before installation.

6. Apply a tiny bead of silicone adhesive to the rim of the sink opening but try not to get it on the face of the cabinet.

7. Set the sink top carefully on the vanity with the help of another person. Make sure the plumbing is lined up and also let the adhesive cure.

8. After the adhesive has cured, the drain should be reconnected and if the tail piece is too long, use a hacksaw to cut it.

9. Connect the water supply lines. If your water supply valves is old and faulty, you will need to replace them. Firstly, you have to turn off the water at the main house valve. If the pipe is a galvanized steel pipe, a pipe wrench should be used to hold the pipe and unscrew the old valve with a wrench. Clean the pipe threads and then wrap them with plumber’s tape. For installation of new valve, use a wrench to hold the pipe in place and tighten the valve.

For pipes that have soldered valves, use a propane torch to heat the junction so as to melt the solder, then remove the valve. In order to avoid burns, pliers should be used to remove the hot valve. Use a heat shield for this type of project. The next thing to do is to clean up the pipe and then attach the new valve with solder.

10. After the installation of your new valves, turn the water on and check if there are any leak. Attach the supply lines to the new valves.

11. Add a thin bead of bathroom caulk on the back edge of the sink.

12. Turn the water on again and test for any leakage. Make necessary adjustments.

Neck Cracking and Grinding

Most persons at some point have heard grinding or cracking noises in their neck upon movement. These sounds also known as crepitus, are generally painless and typically do not represent anything dangerous.

Anyway, if the neck cracking sound is go with by swelling, pain or some other relating symptoms, and then it may represent an issue that should be checked by a professional health expert; over here where i stay, chiropractor in St. Louis, MO has been people’s best alternative point of reference when they begin to experience these.

Possible causes of neck cracking

Crepitus, sometimes known as cavitation or creptiation, favor to any kind of sensation or noise such as snapping, popping, cracking or grinding noise that is heard during neck action. For instance, feel a cracking sensation in the neck when moving the head to back up the vehicle.

Some likely causes of neck cracking should contain

Synovial joint fluid force changes

Different studies have been done deliberately cracking the synovial joints of the fingers, but the results in medical text as to what is exactly making the noise have been combined. In particular, a study released in 1971 presented that the cracking noise of a joint was caused the gaseous bubble bursting in the joint. Anyway, a study released in 2015 reported that that cracking sound was exactly from the bubble being created.

Tendon or ligament moving around bone

Another easy factor in neck cracking could be snapping sound of tendons and ligaments as they move over bones or other tendons or muscles placed in the neck area.

Bone on bone grinding

While a rare reason of neck cracking, it is easy for bone to crush against bone if the cartilage has down. This situation is known as osteoarthritis. It happens gradually with the general aging process, or it can be accelerated if there has been a shocking injury such as sports-related or whiplash injury.

This kind of precipitation is generally accompanied by pain, restricted neck motion, and the cracking sound is generally repeated over and over with each action. This experience is in contract to the typical gas bubble structure crack, where it generally takes about twenty minutes before cavitation, or the cracking can again happen.

DIY Tips to Reduce Bathroom Remodeling Costs

It is not always affordable or practical to spend a lot of money on a large bathroom remodel. You can reduce remodeling costs in many ways to enjoy a big savings and you will still get all the changes you want. A well remodeled bathroom can look like a million bucks, without you actually spending much on it. Use this tips and simple remodeling ideas to save on costs.

Those remodeling you can do yourself

Most homeowners do not have great knowledge of plumbing or electricity, but there are still plenty of ways you can change the look of the bathroom. To save money on a remodeling job, the best thing you can do is do as much of the work yourself as possible.

Revamping the wall

You will need an expert if you want to move walls in the room as it is dangerous to remove load-bearing walls. You can create in-wall storage, however, by knocking out the drywall and exposing the studs. This is a doable work that you can easily do by yourself.

Use a keyhole saw and a hammer to remove a section of drywall in a square. Make sure not to cut into the wooden supports that create the frame of the wall. Now, fill the square with shelves, then block the gaps at the top and bottom with a 2 by 4 across the stud bay. You can then paint it to match the rest of the room.

Change colors

A fresh coat will do wonders for any room. Pick a bright, light color so as to make the room appear larger. To freshen up the entire room, paint the trim and walls. You should lay drop cloths all over the floor and fixtures before you start painting. Also, apply painters tape along walls and tile borders.

Little touches

Purchase new vent covers, switch plates and towel rods. All these items are easy to remove and reinstall. If you make use of a power drill, the work will be faster. Prior to painting, remove the old stuff and replace them with the new material once the paint has dried.


Although you can’t do all the work yourself, if you only do the legwork, you can save yourself some money. If you are planning to replace fixtures in the bathroom, like the toilet and the faucets, look around and price these items out yourself as a contractor may charge you more for these items. Make comparisons and purchase the materials yourself to save some cash.


This is another post inspired by an article writing by a St. Louis bathroom remodeling expert, presented during their new product launch late last year.

A toilet flange is what connects the bottom of the toilet to the drainpipe that is in the bathroom floor. You may need to replace your toilet flange if you notice your toilet is leaking from the base.

The steps to take in repairing a toilet flange includes:

1. Place towels or newspapers on the ground adjacent to the bathroom so as to place the toilet on it after you’ve disconnected it from the flange.

2. Turn water supply to the toilet off.

3. The water supply hose should be disconnected.

4. Make sure you flush the toilet until it’s empty.

5. Either by hand or with the use of a wrench, loosen the two nuts that attach the toilet to the floor. Place them in a place where it can be easily found when you want to it re-attach the toilet later.

6. Remove the toilet and place it on the towels or newspapers that you’ve already placed on the floor.

7. Use a putty knife to clean the wax from the flange seal.

8. With a screwdriver, remove the screws attaching the flange to the floor

9. Remove the flange and then clean it off with a disinfecting wipe or in a sink.

10. The diameter of the sewer pipe should be measured using a tape measure so as to know the correct size for the flange.

11. Take the flange to a hardware store or a plumbing supply store. Purchase a new flange with the same size and shape of the one you measured.

12. Get a new wax ring along with your new flange.

13. The new flange should be secured to the floor with the new bolts. These bolts will hold the flange against the bottom of the toilet.

14. Use a screwdriver to screw the new flange to the floor with the new screws from the product package.

15. Lift up the toilet, set the new wax ring into place on the bottom.

16. Put the toilet on top of the new flange, line up the toilet with the new bolts. To seal the wax ring, press down the toilet tightly.

17. Put in the nuts which hold the toilet to the flange. Tighten them with your hand before you use a wrench to secure them tightly

18. Reconnect the water supply hose and turn water supply to the toilet on.

19. Flush the toilet to ensure that the toilet is now working properly with no leaks.


Basement remodeling in St. Louis has grown to a high pick as of recent, and its very obvious some home owners don’t know some simple hacks, like replacing bulkhead doors, etc; I will be discussing on how to replace a bulkhead doors of your basement without hiring an expert.

To replace your basement bulkhead doors, follow these steps:

1. Use a right angle grinder that is fitted with a cutoff wheel to cut through the hinges on the old bulkhead door. Remove both doors.

2. A grinder should be used to grind off the screw heads from the brackets securing the bulkhead to the foundation.

3. The metal frame of the old bulkhead should be pried off.

4. Do not disturb the existing flashing when removing the header that is along the top of the opening.

5. Using a ½-inch drill and a mixing paddle, mix up a batch of grout.

6. Brush water liberally onto the exposed concrete foundation that is around the opening for the bulkhead.

7. With a pointed brick trowel, apply grout along the top of the foundation walls. Make sure you fill all cracks and voids.

8. Immediately the grout cures, cut pressure-treated 2×10 sills and install to the top of the foundation wall. The sills must be screwed to the house framing.

9. Using masonry screws, fasten the 2×10 sills to the top of the foundation. Drill clearance holes through the 2×10 sills and use a hammer-drill to bore pilot holes down into the concrete foundation.

10. Drive a 3-inch masonry screw into each pilot hole using a cordless drill.

11. Across the bottom of the bulkhead opening, install a pressure-treated 2×6 sill.

12. The 2x10s sills should be cut to length, flush with the bottom sill.

13. To start the installation of the new bulkhead door, set the bottom foundation plate across the bottom of the opening.

14. The foundation plate should be marked to the proper length and then cut with the grinder.

15. The next step is to use the grinder in cutting the two side foundation plates to length.

16. Now remove the foundation plates and apply a self-stick membrane to the surfaces of all the pressure-treated sills.

17. A coat of metal primer should be sprayed onto ends of the foundation plates that is freshly cut.

18. The foundation plate should be set on top of the pressure-treated sills.

19. Along the flashing at the opening top, apply a thick bead of silicone sealant.

20. Slide the metal header of the bulkhead underneath the flashing. Press it down into the silicone sealant.

21. Place the door frame on the foundation plates and secure with bolts and nuts.

22. After doing this, pilot holes should be drilled through the foundation plates. With sheet-metal screws, secure the door frame.

23. Trim off the excess flashing across the top of the bulkhead door with a utility knife.

24. Put a little silicone sealant across the header, then press the flashing down into the sealant.

25. At this point, install the bulkhead doors. Then close the doors to confirm if they are square in the opening.

26. If you are satisfied with the doors’ fit, completely screw down the door frame.

27. To the inside of each door, attach the torsion springs.

28. Silicone sealant should be applied around the inside and outside perimeter of both door.

29. Primer should be sprayed on exposed screw-heads.

30. Coat the new bulkhead doors with exterior-grade oil-based paint.

« Older Entries Next Entries »